An article a bit special today, as Grenoble is (somehow) my home city. I’ll try to be as unbiased as I can, even if the city itself is definitely not my favourite one for running… But definitively my favourite in France to live in, especially as a student (okay, I’m biased now). As usual, here is a selection of a few tested running to give you inspiration on where to run in Grenoble.
City profile
Geography: Capital of the Alps, we often refer to Grenoble as a “basin”, stuck between three mountain ranges, the Vercors, Chartreuse and Belledone. Fun fact though, Grenoble is France’s flattest city.
Population: 160 000 for the city itself, 450 000 for the whole urban area.
Climate: Continental: (very) cold (though there is less and less snow every year) in winter, (super) hot in summer.
What it’s famous for: The mountains of course, ski, hiking and trail being major touristic attractions. In the city itself, the Bastille fort and its cable car. Grenoble is also a famous for its student life (but dead in summer).
Running friendliness: ✴️✴️✴️
How I ended-up in Grenoble
I started my higher education in Grenoble, when I was in “classe préparatoire” for two years. That’s also when I started running (just a couple of kilometres a week at that time!), thanks to (because?) of my boyfriend at that time. I came back two years later, after Berlin. As I was tired of management and marketing bull****, I took a gap year from my business school and chose to complete a master 2 at Grenoble’s university in development economics meanwhile.
First run
If I remember well, my first run ever (apart from physical education at school, for which running was actually my favourite sports already) was in my parents’ town (25km away from Grenoble) in the beginning of my second year of prepa. Back then, I was exhausted and out of breath after 2km, and my only motivation was to try following my boyfriend. We took the habit to meet once a week in Grenoble after school for a short run in the parc Paul Mistral, and from there I started to run alone on the weekend back at my parent’s.
I don’t remember exactly my “second first” run when I came back to Grenoble two years later. I moved in September and I was preparing the 10K of runnin’ Lyon for beginning of October, so I guess it must have been an interval training session in Paul Mistral.
Most of my runs in Grenoble were short runs, as I was coming back on weekends at my parent’s in the countryside for Sunday long runs.
Where to run in Grenoble ? Favourite running spots
Parc Paul Mistral (aka PPM for the locals), the city centre’s classic
Aaah the parc Paul Mistral… This central park is a good illustration of what life in Grenoble is like. Students picnicking on the lawn, young people practising slack lines, joggers, pétanque players, supporters on game nights, drug dealers… A small feel of Berlin somehow. One thing you learn immediately when you move to Grenoble: don’t cross the PPM at night!
Why run there:
- The parc is very central in the city, and easily accessible whichever side you come from. Convenient for an afterwork/school run, and to meet-up with other runners.
- It’s flat, and it’s dirt
- It’s perfect for interval trainings
- There’s a kind of athletics track, it’s not tartan but it’s a loop
- There are several water points
…and why not
- That’s a no go at night security wise
- It can be crowded, be prepared to slalom between people, even if the parks alleys are very wide
- It’s not so big, so for long runs you may continue on the river banks (which are very close)
- It’s a very “urban” park, don’t expect to find real dirt trails and a feel of nature, for that, you may rather go to the riverbanks
The riverbanks of the Isère, for a refreshing run
If you’re looking for a quieter itinerary away from the cars with a sensation of being in the nature (by completely in the city), the riverbank is a good choice. Actually, that was my favourite route in Grenoble.
Why run there:
- Potentially very long route. There is a cycle path all the way along the Isère, from Valence to Grenoble, and on the other side from Grenoble to Aix les Bains and further (even if at some point the track is moving away from the riverbank). I was running between the city centre of Grenoble, Saint Martin d’Hères and the campus area.
- The cycle lane is a bit high above the river and can be a bit dangerous (on morning and evening hours, it’s a proper cycling highway, with people potentially riding very fast). I recommend to take the narrow trail path underneath that gives directly on the riverbank. You’ll have a feeling of running in the wild, and that’s much less boring than following the concrete cycling lane. You may even see people practising rowing on the river. On Grenoble side, the trail path is ending at Notre Dame musée, where you will have to take the cycling track again. In Saint Martin d’Hères direction, it is so long that I don’t even know where it stops. I never tried running on the other side of the Isère (the Bastille side), but it is pretty much the same, you have to take the cycling lane in the city centre, and then you will find a trail once you approach Saint Martin d’Hères.
- You have a trail or nature run feeling… but without any elevation
- You don’t have to think too much about the route, just follow the path
…and why not:
- Ok, it can be a bit boring over time if you do it to and from. In the end, it’s just a straight line. You can also integrate a small portion on the riverbank to a bigger loop in the city, or to complete your run in PPM.
- It already happened that I ran further than expected without realising. Either you go back the same way, either leave the track and try to understand where you ended up in the city… But that’s part of the fun, right?
The Bastille fort, for the braves!
The classic urban trail! The Bastille (which has nothing to do with the Bastille in Paris) is an old fortress perched at 476m at the foot of the Chartreuse mountain range and overlooking the city. It is located across the river, opposite the city centre. It is well known for its cable car that passes over the river. There are two options to climb it. The first one (the most usual one) starts rue Saint Laurent, at the lion fountain (Fontaine du lion). The other one start in the “Jardin des dauphins” on Quai de France, just opposite the big bridge. Depending on where you start, it is between 2 and 3 km to go up, but with around 250m elevation! Meaning: you’re just climbing the whole way! You can also combine both routes to make a loop climbing on one side and going down on the other.
Why run there:
- For the view at the top!
- It’s a good trail running training within the city. The route is not technical though, it is only made of gravel
- No cars!
- For a real long trail session, you can extend your run to the Mont Jalla (635m), or even to the Mont Rachais (above 1000m). The distances are short but the trail is steep!
…and why not
- I’d better tell you straight away: this is not easy, you have to climb 250m in not even 3km.
- It’s not a very varied trail, you just climb at once and go down.
The campus area, for some peace and quiet (in theory)
For the students among you. The campus is located in Saint Martin d’Hères, and gives on the river banks.
Why run there:
- The traffic is limited
- It’s convenient if you stay around the university
- You can combine it with the trail on the riverbank
- You can stop at the street workout parks on the campus
- It’s flat
- You can have a rather long run
…and why not:
- Unless you go on the riverbanks, it’s concrete roads the whole time
- The area can be busy with pedestrians, cyclists, buses
- The campus is quite huge, you can easily get lost…
Moutain’s calling!
The advantage of living in Grenoble is that the mountain is just a stone throw from the city, with an infinity of trail routes. Chartreuse, Vercors, Belledone, Oisan, Taillefer… The possibilities are endless. There are several official trail stations around Grenoble (Chartreuse, Vercors and Oisan), most of them accessible by public transportation, that offer different well marked trail routes for all levels, but other ski resorts (Chamrousse for instance) may propose some as well. Otherwise, you can choose any hiking trail you like to use it as a running trail. Be careful though, some of them may be very technical and include climbing parts, narrow ridges, ladders, etc. If you’re lost in this vast choice, ask the tourism office, local runners, trailers or hiking groups. There is also a trail group at the university which organises excursions around the city.
And you, what are you favourite routes and trails in and around Grenoble?