Berlin, my second “expat” destination, this time quite far from home but also a running-friendly capital city. Where to run in Berlin? Here is a selection of tested running spots.
City profile
Geography: Well, I guess I don’t need to spend too much time on this one. Capital city of Germany, North East of the country, not far from Poland. The city is HUGE (something like 8 times the surface area of Paris!) but with a low population density.
Population: 3.8 million
Climate: Freeezing! I have never been so cold in my life (and yet, I come from a cold climate as well) especially because of this wind that pierces your clothes. I remember running in deep snow in winter and ending-up soaked to my knees. Summer on the contrary can be very hot (but I never experienced it myself, I lived there from September to May).
What it’s famous for: Its history of course (from the museums about DDR to the remains of the wall), its curry wurst sold and eaten everywhere in the street, its nightlife and mythic clubs (be prepared to queue 3 hours before ending-up being turned away by the bouncer…)
Running friendliness: ✴️✴️✴️
How I ended-up in Berlin
Berlin was actually a default choice at first. Turin was my “pre-master year”, and I was entering now a two years master. To validate this master, the school requires the students to study at least on two different campuses and to complete at least one specialisation during the second year, which differ from a campus to another. As I was targeting a specialisation on the Madrid campus, I had to choose another one to spend the first year of my master. Still not eager to go to Paris, even less to London (rather say that my wallet was not eager to), I just asked for Berlin. It’s cheap, and I don’t know anything about it nor about Germany. Also, at the same time, I was lucky that my boyfriend was accepted to spend the year in Erasmus in Poznan, only three hours away from Berlin, across the Polish border.
First run
Lesson learnt from Turin, I first took a walk to the nearest park I could go running to. Not that near though, it was around 2.5kms from where I stayed (the perfect distance for the warm-up and cool-down phases of an interval training session 😀). That’s why my first run turned out to be longer than expected, even if I didn’t mean to run such a long distance. It was a nice park, a nice weather in September, I didn’t see the miles go by, and ran around 14km.
Running spots
Insulaner park, my default running spot
So this park became my usual running spot for several reasons. First, it was one of the closest to where I lived. Second, it was far enough and large enough to run more than 10km without getting bored. Third, it was a nice forest-like setting. Fourth, it was a bit hilly, first time for me that I had to run up and down. And finally, another park (or a graveyard? Or both?) was right across the road a just perfect for interval training (dirt road, flat, oval like a race track, and almost no one!).
However, this park is quite confidential and remote if you don’t live close by, you will never hear about it. I recommend it if you live in the districts of Schöneberg, Friedenau or Steglitz. And if I remember well, most of it is made of tarmac.
Volkspark Wilmersdorf, for cross training
Another nice park roughly a kilometre away from where I lived was the narrow and lengthy Vollkspark Wilmersdorf. Aside from running I loved going to that park in my free time to have a walk or enjoy the sun while revising for the exams (yes it is sunny sometimes in Berlin). The park follows a river, is full of sports infrastructures and there is even a small pond next to the metro station where people were ice skating in winter.
Why run there:
- It’s dirt tracks!
- It’s flat!
- There is a street-workout park. So I was running there every two weeks making a break for twenty minutes for some dips.
… and why not:
- It’s not that big for a long run, I would recommend it for a short session (less than 8km)
- It can be quite crowdy (with children)
- The annoying thing is that the park is made of three parts. Between two of them, there is a bridge crossing the road for pedestrians, but for the third part you have to cross several large avenues (but that’s the nicest part, with fewer people).
- And well, the location is suitable if you live in Schöneberg, Friedenau or Wilmersdorf, otherwise it’s far if you live in the East.
Tiergarten, for looong runs
Berlin’s iconic park, in the heart of the Western part of the city. Tiergarten means zoo in German (because guess what, that’s where the zoo is located, you can even catch glimpses of animals in their enclosures from the park) but the park is much bigger than that. If you look at it from above (from the top of the Reichstag for exemple), it’s a proper forest in the middle of the city, joining the “Victory column” on the West to the Brandenburg Gate on the East.
Why run there:
- It’s HUGE (210 hectares!). You can easily run more than an hour without getting bored, and when you’re in the middle, you feel like being out of the city. It’s a nice “nature feeling”, you have forest, rivers, ponds…
- It’s flat, and it’s dirt tracks.
- It’s central and easily accessible. You have several S-bahn and U-bahn stations, and several bus stops. And because it’s so big you can enter it whether you come from Charlottenburg, Moabit, or even Mitte districts.
…and why not:
- Beware not to get lost and run more than what you have planned
- Some parts can be a bit crowdy, especially on weekends
- If you live far in “Eastern Berlin”, it’s not that close. Prefer Treptower park for example.
Tempelhofer feld, my favourite place in Berlin (but not for running)
Tempelhof is a former airport, which has been operating until 2008. The park opened to the public in 2010 after revendications and mass occupation by citizens. With 350 hectares, it is even larger than the Tiergarten but mainly consists in large tarmac tracks (the former plane runways) and big grassy areas (the only few trees are on the edges of the park). The airport buildings are still standing as well as some aircrafts here and there.
I love this park because it is unique, and the Berliners really took possession of it. It is lively and joyful, hundreds of kites are floating in the air, people are even “windsurfing” along the runways, vegetable are growing in recycled objects in the middle of inventive constructions made of every kind of scavenged materials, groups of youngsters or families are picnicking (even barbecuing) everywhere. It’s a very cool atmosphere of freedom (and eccentricity, in one word, that’s Berlin!) .
Why run there:
- It’s HUGE. That’s the main advantage.
- It’s long flat areas, perfect to work on your speed and sprinting.
…and why not:
- It’s tarmac everywhere.
- It’s mainly long straight lines, so that can be boring.
- It’s way too crowdy on weekends and sunny days, you could get crushed by roller skaters and children learning how to ride a bike.
Charlottenburg park, for a royal run
Another park I like (right next to my school). Schloss Charlottenburg is a funny Baroque castle located in the West part of the city (visit it inside, it’s worth it). It also has a nice park, made of a small “Jardin à la française”, a pond where people marvel at the swans, and long alleys with trees.
Why run there:
- It’s dirt tracks
- It’s flat
- It’s beautiful!
…and why not:
- It’s not that big, you won’t do more than 7km (or you will have to make many loops)
- It’s completely West, so quite far if you don’t live in that part
- As a touristic spot, it can be crowdy
Grünewald
Grünewald (green forest in German) is (guess what) a big forest a bit out of town on the South West part on Berlin, on the way to Potsdam. It is also the name of the district. I have never been there for running, but hiked to Teufelsberg, the highest hill (120m above sea level lol) in the forest on top of which stands a derelict US listening station (you HAVE to go there it’s awesome).
Why run there:
- For trail running, it’s a nice playground. There is not much elevation gain though.
- It’s huge, all natural, not crowded as a park could be.
…and why not:
- Beware of not getting lost!
- It’s far out of town (10km away from the district of Mitte), but still the best (and probably closest) option for trail running.
And in the East?
As I was staying and going to school in the West part (yes we are many years after cold war but people still refer to East and West), I didn’t really have the opportunity (nor motivation) to go East for running (the best bars and clubs are definitely that side though!). I would suggest Volkspark Friedrichshain (rather large and you have a small hill in the middle), or just go to Tiergarten if that’s not too far for you.
And you, what are your favourite running routes in Berlin?