Back to being a mzungu again! Or rather, this time, a toubab. Yes indeed, two years after leaving Uganda, I just found myself settling down in Sub-Saharan Africa again. But this time, acclimatisation wasn’t that difficult. Dakar is indeed somehow a mix between my two previous host cities. A long corniche on the Atlantic, calls for payers and tired taxi cars: it has a taste of Casablanca. A joyful mess of markets and street vendors, local minibuses that go God knows where, friendly and open people who are always happy to talk to you: that definitely sounds like Kampala.
In any case, Dakar is a busy African capital, which comes with quite a few challenges when it comes to running: high pollution, heavy traffic, lack of parks and green spaces… But hey, I have survived worse, haven’t I? So after almost two years trying running here and there in the Senegalese capital, here is my selection of routes to practice your favourite sports.
City profile
Geography: capital of Senegal, Dakar is a thin peninsula surrounded by the Atlantic ocean, and the most Western part of Africa. Its surface area is ridiculously small compared with the rest of the country, yet almost 25% of the population is crammed on this small strip of land between Dakar city itself, and the suburban area.
Population: roughly 4 millions
Climate: climate in Senegal is divided between a long dry season (October to June) and a short a steamy rainy season (July to September). In Dakar, the temperatures are usually cooler than in other parts of the country due to the permanent wind coming from the ocean, and rains are not as strong as in other regions. Yet, temperatures can rise up to 35°C in the summer months (“hivernage”), and the with the high humidity rate, it usually feels much hotter. Winters can be relatively cool (meaning as cold as 16°C lol).
What it’s famous for: Dakar is a historical, cultural and political capital in West Africa. Perhaps it is mostly known for Gorée Island, where West African slaves were “shipped” to America. Dakar is also famous for its art, creation and fashion scene.
Running friendliness: ✴️
How I ended-up in Dakar
To be honest, I wasn’t really planing to go back to Sub-Saharan Africa (no, I wanted to stay in Morocco of course!), but still, Senegal was in my top list of countries where I wanted to go, and I found a job there so… here we go again 😏
First run
I arrived in Dakar in March and it took me almost a month to find a place and really settle down. I spent most of my time in Plateau, the “city centre” (which is not located geographically in the centre at all but anyway) since I was working there.
As usual, I designed a perfect loop on Google maps to follow for my first run, which was pretty much touring Plateau from the port and taking the coast road. And as usual, I couldn’t follow it completely (you can’t go past in front of the presidential palace) and it was shorter than planed. I remember suffering a bit from the heat (I was coming straight from winter in France) and in the slopes on the coast, but it wasn’t all bad for a first try.
Running spots to consider
At first sight, Dakar is not the easiest destination for a runner. Between the stifling heat, the high pollution, the heavy traffic and the slopes here and there, the environment can feel slightly hostile for running.
But Dakar means also a beautiful coast road, views on the ocean, an endless beach, sun rise and sun set runs. Worth trying right?
“La petite corniche”, the small coast road in Plateau, for short but hilly runs
The “small corniche” refers to the small coast road that is surrounding Plateau. It starts behind the port, goes (almost) straight until Cape Manuel and then circles back towards the city centre. My usual route for short runs during the week. I used to start behind the Pulmann hotel or to go down to the port and make several loops around Cape Manuel (turning down after the former law court where the buses park), coming back either by the same road either by the city centre.
Why run there:
- It’s the only “runable” route if you live in the city centre, as it is relatively preserved from traffic
- It features beautiful views on the ocean and Gorée island. It’s at least worth a stroll
- You will work your calfs and your cardio in the slopes, as there is pretty much no flat section on the route
- There are a few large trees along the way to provide some shade, which is quite rare in Dakar
- This side of the sea road is rather protected from the terrible wind of Dakar
- You can enjoy an amazing sunrise early morning
…and why not:
- It’s perfect for a short run (up to 8 – 9km). If you want to extend your run, you’ll either have to go to the streets of Plateau (which can be… challenging, the best choice being the streets around the Sokhamon hotel, taking avenue des Diambars after the Pasteur institute), either continue to the Western corniche (so going out of Plateau), taking left when you get out of the Sokhamon hotel’s street
- The small corniche gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday afternoons (everyone comes to the beach clubs and restaurants), and between the parked cars and the cars passing each other, it’s not easy to manoeuvre
- As mentioned above, it is not flat (not as bad as Kampala but still, you’re always running up or down)
- It’s 100% tarmac
- Plateau in general is not very well lit at night, especially the last section of the corniche to go down to the port. The corniche may be dangerous when it gets dark (guys on motorbikes grabbing your phone, typically) and the city streets themselves are full of potholes. Taking a headlamp in winter can be a good idea, otherwise, try to stick to larger streets or to get back up before the Pulmann hotel.
The Western “corniche”, for a long run with a view
The “Western corniche” is the long road that goes all the way from Plateau to the Almadies along the sea. They started to laid it out as the corniche of Casablanca, with street workout parks, some greenery, but it’s still a work in progress (actually I haven’t seen anything done in two years). The Western corniche was my usual Sunday long run, from Plateau to Fann or further and back, or (after moving to another neighbourhood), around Mermoz and Ouakam. After Ouakam and the mosque of the Divinity, the road moves away from the sea and it becomes harder to stay away from the traffic.
Why run there:
- The easiest route for long runs where you can avoid traffic. Plateau to the mosque of the Divinity is roughly 10km one way, so it gives some latitude to cover a good distance
- Nice views on the sea and on the monuments of Dakar (Millennium monument, African Remembrance Square, mosque of the Divinity)
- There are possibilities to run on dirt paths here and there: on the kind of waste ground just after going out of Plateau, down to the beaches before the Millennium monument and in Fann, in the street workout park in Fann, etc
…and why not:
- Some sections are annoying, for instance Soumbedioune, around the fish market. It’s better here to cross the road to avoid the traffic, the sand (and the smell!)
- There is virtually no shade the whole way, which is pretty horrible in summer
- It’s sunny, yes, but it’s also very windy most of the time
- The Western corniche is perfect on Sunday mornings (and to a certain extent, on Saturday morning, if you’re planing to go out on Saturday night), but it gets very congested after 5pm (even on weekends), and is basically unpracticable during the week
Hann park, OMG, are these trees!?
Other similarity between Dakar and Casablanca: it’s not very green (putting it nicely), and as the city continues to expend and develop, it’s not likely to improve anytime soon. In this context, Hann park feels like a peaceful haven, with a forest, a pond (AND NO CARS DAMN!)
Why run there:
- I think I said it all in the introduction, but Hann park is probably the only space in Dakar where you can cut off from the noise, the traffic and find some greenery
- Perfect when it’s starting to get hot, most of the loop is under the shade
- Somehow dirt paths (or paved roads covered with dirt lol)
- It’s flat 😀
- The park is easily accessible from the city centre by train (TER), it’s only two stops away from Dakar’s main station
…and why not:
- It’s quite far if you live in Ouakam, Mamelles or Almadies (or you can try the lovely local bus n°49)
- The loop is roughly one mile, which is enough for short runs, but not really for long ones
Finding routes in the city streets
After finishing my contract, I moved in with my boyfriend in Sacré Coeur, a residential neighbourhood located in the geographical centre of Dakar. As it was further away from the corniche, I had to explore new routes in the surroundings, and I also started to go more often to Hann park (with that same bus n°49).
Why run there:
- Sacré Coeur is a residential area, so it’s not that complicated to find small roads without much traffic
- Good for short runs not far from home if you live around the neighbourhoods of Sacré Coeur and Liberté
…and why not:
- The loop I could build is quite small (one mile) so I rapidly get bored after 4 or 5
- Another possibility is to follow the rapid bus transit (BRT), since it takes a large avenue with enough space on the pavements. It’s easy, and you can’t get lost, just follow down and back up. It can be very congested on week days though, and you’ll also have to stop many times at cross roads
- Both routes are not flat
Other possibilities I haven’t tried
Almadies: the second priciest and expat neighbourhood, completely opposite to Plateau, North of the peninsula. It’s possible to make a loop between the “corniche des Almadies” (where there are all the bars and restaurants) until the American Embassy coming back by the parallel road (route des Almadies).
Yoff beach: Yoff beach (aka BCEAO) is an endless beach starting from the Yoff fishing warf to Guediawaye (and actually Saint Louis). At low tide, you have more than enough for a long run.
African Renaissance monument: looking for a tempo run? Run up and down the 198 steps of the monument. Also very good to build power in your legs.
Where to go for interval training?
Talking about tempo runs, you may wonder where to go for interval training (yes I’m sure you do, come on). Between the traffic and the hills all other the place, it took me quite some time to find a proper route to exercise. The option I found around Plateau is Avenue des Diambars, making a loop with the parallel street or running back and forth. It’s relatively flat, and there are way fewer cars than in the rest of Plateau’s streets.
Other runs in Senegal
Running elsewhere in Senegal is not as complicated as in Dakar. First, for all the coastal cities, you can just go run on the beach (the country is bordered by the beach from North to South). Below, runs in Cap Skirring, Kafountine and Palmarin.
In small cities and in the countryside, you have plenty of trails (on Sine Saloum islands, around Kedougou, in Casamance…). Trail shoes can come on handy, especially during rainy season.
In Saint Louis, the easiest is to make a loop around the island running along the river. Perhaps the most complicated was Ziguinchor where I went completely randomly, where the streets are busy and sometimes large and complicated to cross.
And you, what are your favourite running routes in Dakar and Senegal?