Spoiler: yes, I may have found in Casablanca one of my favourite running spots so far. At least probably my favourite expatriation destination so far. In any case, definitely a second home.
But first let’s rewind, because that story didn’t start so well, though, did it?
First, I arrived in Morocco still mourning Uganda, without any transition in France in the meantime. Coming from Kampala, Casablanca was quite a shock, as if I were suddenly thrown back into the 21th century again (OMG there are towers, pavements, and even pedestrian crossings. And the tram!?). New city, new culture, new job, new relationships to build, a new start is never easy but after all, it wasn’t my first time (and not the last one either 😏).
Second, and more worrying, I still hadn’t recovered from my second kneecap dislocation that happened three months before (aah Uganda…), so I wasn’t very optimistic about my running perspectives in my new city. My new Moroccan physio diagnosed me osteoarthritis which, to my ears, sounded just like “you will never run again”. After months of rehabilitation, daily exercises, improvements and relapses, I started running again from scratch in January 2023.
Eventually after 6 months, I have been able to enjoy Casa as a runner too (unlike Vienna, ouf). And as usual, here are my tested and tried routes in the white city. Yallah!
City profile
Geography: somehow North-West of Morocco, sat on the Atlantic ocean. Though it’s not the capital, Casablanca is by far the country’s largest city and its economic hub.
Population: officially something like 4 or 5 millions, some say 10, some say 20…
Climate: Casa’s climate is a mix between a Mediterranean and a British climate. Often sunny, rarely (really rarely) raining, but often humid due to the ocean’s proximity. Winter is relatively mild (it can go as “low” as 10°C) and summer is not that hot compared with other regions in Morocco (it doesn’t reach over 35°C).
What it’s famous for: I guess what comes to mind first is that old movie (you can still enjoy a not-so-good overpriced cocktail in Rick’s café…). Casablanca doesn’t have such a good reputation even (or especially) among Moroccans: too large, too congested, too polluted, too stressful, too dirty, showcase of the new riches, pitiless with the poors… and it’s not a touristic city either, except for the mosque. All in all, the perfect city for an expatriation in my point of view.
Running friendliness: ✴️✴️
How I ended-up in Casablanca
I can almost say that I found myself in Morocco (even more than in Uganda) by accident. After a year in Kampala, and as I was starting to think about my next move, I applied to a random internal offer that popped into my mailbox in October. Motivation number one… well, Morocco could be cool. I thought I probably didn’t have the profile, forgot about it, and I was honestly surprised to hear in March that I was taken.
I arrived in Casablanca straight from Kampala in July 2022. By coincidence, this was right before Eid el Kebir, somehow the perfect introduction to my new country…
First run
As it was the case in Madrid, my first run in Casablanca wasn’t the most exciting one, as it was a post-injury test run.
Officially my first run ever was in August 2022. But two months after stopping physio and without any specific strengthening, my knee was way too week to handle that. No need to say that it was a disaster.
After more than three months of physiotherapy, I decided to retry the experience in January now my knee was stronger (new year, new challenge). I was dead-scared, set-off for a (very) short test run in the Arab league park. I was kind of running-limping (I did for a long time), unstable, my cardio was lousy, so was my endurance, but well, I was somehow running again. I started keeping a running diary to keep track of my sessions and my sensations, followed to the letter the 10% rule. Three to four months later, I was (almost) gone back to normal.
Where to run in Casablanca? Running spots to consider
“You’ll see, this city is a mess, the traffic is chaotic and people are driving like crazy”. That’s pretty much what I had been told by many people. But coming from Kampala, and even worse more, from Hanoi, I was like “Hum no, it’s fine actually”. Compared with my two previous expatriation destinations, I could almost consider Casablanca as a running friendly city (especially on Sundays, “el7ed ma kayn 7ed” as we say here).
The Arab League park, for a classy short run
The iconic park of Casablanca, with its fountains and mosaic ponds, its straight lines of palm trees and its white cathedral in the corner.
Why run there:
- It’s a beautiful park, perfect to include into a touristic run
- It’s central
- It’s partly dirt tracks
- The long alleys are perfect for speed work and short interval trainings
- There’s a street workout park if you want to mix your run with a strength session
…and why not:
- It’s quite small and definitely not suitable for a long run, unless you want to run 15 loops. Especially that the park is cut in two (still wondering who had this smart idea…) and you have to cross a large road between the two parts. I was usually going there during the week for 6 to 8km runs, staying in the biggest park (one loop is around 1.2 km)
- It’s closing early in winter (7pm, not sure if it’s still the case now) so I have often been kicked out. My alternative was to run around the “small part” of the park (the one with the church) passing by the skate park behind
- It gets very crowded on weekends and holidays (as it’s one of the only spot in Casa where you can find some greenery). So pretty annoying for running (or come early Sunday morning)
- It’s often full of kids playing around 🙄
The “corniche”, for a long run with a view
If I had to rank my favourite running spots, that one would definitely be in the top 3.
The corniche is a long road that goes all the way along the sea, roughly from Marina mall to Morocco mall. My usual long Sunday run consisted in going down to the mosque Hassan II, passing by the lighthouse (“el Hank”), Anfa place (another mall), until the Megarama movie theatre or even Aïn Diab for (very) long runs. I also tried to go to the other side of the mosque, but you rapidly find yourself into a dead end, or you have to continue to the port.
Why run there:
- For the amazing view on the ocean all along the run and on the mosque. Just can’t get enough!
- Perfect for long runs, either back and forth, either doing a loop via Anfa. From the mosque to Morocco mall, it’s more or less 10km (one way)
- The corniche is laid out as a kind of open park, with large alleys and patches of grass that separate the water front from the road (except around the Anfa place and the Megarama). Which means that you can run away from the cars most of the time, and no need to cross roads for 10km
- There are a few portions that are not flat (yes, it’s a positive point for me) around Anfa place and the Megarama. Nevertheless, my favourite part remains the slope behind the lighthouse, which is basically a (short) trail on the edge of the cliff (you have to follow a trail behind the car park of el Hank, and continue on a kind of waste ground)
- Good for long interval trainings (basically I did all my half marathon prep on the corniche)
…and why not:
- There’s not a single tree for 10km (it’s Casa…), which means no shade at all on the whole route. So don’t forget your cap if you don’t want to die of heat stroke
- That wind… Sometimes it’s nice and refreshing, but sometimes it just feels like you’re not moving forward
- It’s tarmac all the way, except that secret spot behind the lighthouse
- Better to avoid the end of the afternoon and around sunset, it gets very busy
Anfa, for some peace and quiet
Anfa is the residential area between the Anfa boulevard and the corniche. Green, with large villas, little traffic, it’s a good option for a run.
Why run there:
- It’s
deadvery quiet, you can run in the middle of the road on Sundays, who cares - It’s one of the only area where you can find some slopes (Anfa means hill in Arabic)
- It’s on the way if you want to make a loop from the city centre to the corniche #pragmatic
- There’s some greenery, which means shadow, and it’s protected from the wind
…and why not:
- I never had a proper run only in Anfa, for me it was just on the way to go back to Maarif after the Corniche. I would say that it’s a good option for (relatively) short runs, but probably not more than 8-10km.
- Unless you live around, you’ll have to take the large avenues to get there
Anfa park, for a long park run
Following the Moroccan logic, you won’t find Anfa park in the Anfa neighbourhood but in Beauséjour, a bit inner in the city. Anfa park is a recent park built next to “Casablanca finance city”, the new trendy business district of Casa.
Why run there:
- While the Arab League park rather looks like a planted garden, Anfa park is a proper park, with thick trees (shadow!), bushes and small paths
- The park is relatively large (one loop must be almost 2km)
- It’s mostly dirt paths, except for the large alley joining the two entrances
- There are several drinking fountains in the park (yes you can drink tap water in Morocco)
- You just need to follow the tram down to the sea to join Aïn Diab and the corniche
…and why not:
- It’s larger than the Arab League park but still not that large for more than 10km
- It’s quite far if you’re staying in the city centre. You’ll either need to run along the big roads, either take the tram (and as a girl wearing shorts, it’s always… an interesting experience)
Here and there in the centre
I rarely run in city centres, since stopping every two minute to cross a street and avoiding people is quickly driving me crazy. But it happened a few times in Casa when I wanted to change my routine. In that case, target the Sunday morning.
Why run there:
- Personally, close to where I used to live
- You can make a good touristic loop (the old medina, United Nations square, Mohamed V square…)
- There are some pedestrian streets (
otherwise, run on the tram lanes, oups)
…and why not:
- It’s quite a mess during the week
- Everyone is going to look at you (especially if you are a foreign girl, running past the terraces is not the most pleasant experience… 😒)
Bouskoura forest, for some greenery at last
Half way between Casablanca and the airport, Bouskoura is the new hype for expat families and the new riches. A modern “green city” is being built up (relatively far from the original one), next to the forest, Bouskoura’s main attraction. There is a famous 15K race organised every year.
To get there from Casa, take the bus 309 from Maarif (around Ghandi), it takes around 25 minutes (traffic jams not included).
Why run there:
- Finally some nature… Even if it is well maintained and organised as a park, it’s a proper forest with trails and high trees (mostly eucalyptus and pines)
- Very large, you could run a full marathon in there
- Quiet, green, away from the cars (= happiness 😀)
…and why not:
- It’s easy to get disoriented and run longer than expected
- If it wasn’t the distance and transportation time from Casablanca, I would have gone much more often
I usually share my other runs in the country, but in Morocco I have quite many, and I already wrote too much here, so you’ll find them in a separate post.
And you, what are your favourite running routes in Casablanca?
I lived in Casablanca in 2011/2012 and used to have a 10k circuit from my place in Maarif (near the McDonalds) up to the sea between El Hank and the mosque, then along in front of the mosque (banned last time I tried it in 2022!) and round the sea front along the bit which you now found to be a dead end (you can still get out to the feeder road at the back of the new shops by climbing over a fence by the way). In those days I would cut across the now developed waste land to the main road opposite Rick’s Cafe, then follow the walls of the medina past La Sqala and then cut through the corner of the medina coming out by the clock tower. Then I would head south on Bd Hassan II, cut in down Rue du Parc and run all the way down the Parc de la Ligue Arab as well as the southern extension as far as Rue Mohamed Bahi then Rue Al Madani and back up to Maarif. A few annoying roads to cross but it was an interesting and varied circuit which I did every other day for about 18 months. I used to get a few odd looks in front of the mosque and in the medina (which you could avoid by just following the wall round), but I really enjoyed it – always loved a bit of noise and piles of rubbish having run in Karachi, Dhaka, Ulaanbaatar, Libreville, Addis Ababa, Khartoum and other such places. Enjoyed reading your descriptions of more recent Casablanca runs – keep it up!
Awesome! Interesting to get a feeling from Casa back then, I guess many things have changed! Indeed, forgot to mention that it’s impossible to cut in front of the mosque, you need to go all the way around… which is fine when running but a big waste of time when just walking ^^’